[piotrus-g]

It 38d1xj . I used 20 ohm resister on it . I like the volume of it .

Also I reverse the polarity on 38 . I thought I don’t need it, but I saw something crazy happening on the graph that look like cancellation .


Also ,he is my coffee time drawing lol
I want to try and see if 1 is different from 2

Now, i have to find 40 uf cap , i only have 22 on my hand right now.
Ill be honest, this driver is very confusing .

But thanks for help!

2x22uF in parallel together will make 44uF (and 2x22uF in series would make 11uF) so you can solder 2 22uF together and you have 40.
As for the drawing 1 is identical to 2.

Explain further, inverting the phase?

every single time someone mentions wiring the tweeters and phase this exact question pops up, I anticipated it trying to write my post as clearly as possible. My friend - please reread what I wrote, the answer is in first sentence you quoted. Nothing personal - this question has been answered like 100 times here.

Is the SWFK-31736 good for the high end, or should I have gone for a TWFK? My plan was to build a full BA IEM as a personal project, and I got myself the CI-22955 and ED-29689 as well as the SWFK.

Also, I found this diagram deep within this thread (I redrew it, can't find the page for the diagram), do you think this is good, and if it can be modified in some way.

CI- ED would be fine, but 2x0.22uF in series = 0.1uF which is .... pointless, crossover point at 22-25kHz ??? make it 4 or 6uF and that would be good.
CI-TWFK - again mindless cap wiring. Tweeter with 1uF is ok, but the woofer with 0.22uF in second order - it's basically 0 signal to the woofer. TWFK needs bigger cap for woofer - 6-10uF and than 1-0.33uF for tweeter (in 1st order)

Given you have CI, ED and SWFK I'd use first scheme, change cap on ED as described above and than SWFK with 1.5-0.33uF and you'll get a nice full-range 3 way design.

So as per this diagram, it would be better to invert the ED so that the positive line with the caps enter the negative terminal in order to maintain the phase.

looking at the scheme the phase has been already inverted, connect it as shown on the scheme.

 

[shade105]

2x22uF in parallel together will make 44uF (and 2x22uF in series would make 11uF) so you can solder 2 22uF together and you have 40.
As for the drawing 1 is identical to 2.

every single time someone mentions wiring the tweeters and phase this exact question pops up, I anticipated it trying to write my post as clearly as possible. My friend - please reread what I wrote, the answer is in first sentence you quoted. Nothing personal - this question has been answered like 100 times here.

CI- ED would be fine, but 2x0.22uF in series = 0.1uF which is .... pointless, crossover point at 22-25kHz ??? make it 4 or 6uF and that would be good.
CI-TWFK - again mindless cap wiring. Tweeter with 1uF is ok, but the woofer with 0.22uF in second order - it's basically 0 signal to the woofer. TWFK needs bigger cap for woofer - 6-10uF and than 1-0.33uF for tweeter (in 1st order)

Given you have CI, ED and SWFK I'd use first scheme, change cap on ED as described above and than SWFK with 1.5-0.33uF and you'll get a nice full-range 3 way design.

looking at the scheme the phase has been already inverted, connect it as shown on the scheme.

So, based on your advice, would this be the go-to design? Cap values based on what I have (0.22 uF) and what I can find online (4.7 uF). Also, advice on tube length and damper choice if you can. I thought of putting the SWFK as close to the nozzle as possible and the CI with a 1mm ID tube and heavy damper a long way from the nozzle, but professional advice is appreciated. Thanks

 

[swtnate]

So, based on your advice, would this be the go-to design? Cap values based on what I have (0.22 uF) and what I can find online (4.7 uF). Also, advice on tube length and damper choice if you can. I thought of putting the SWFK as close to the nozzle as possible and the CI with a 1mm ID tube and heavy damper a long way from the nozzle, but professional advice is appreciated. Thanks

1mm ID on CI strips the driver of so much warmth and character. Damper effect is more pronounced the closer to the sound bore, further away from the nozzle. CI has such a big engine! Nothing really replicates. What you will have to balance is overall loudness. CI and ED can really overpower the tweeters. If you put the tweeters closer to the sound bore, you will introduce acoustic phase issues as the higher frequencies will reach your ear drum much faster than the longer wave signature of the lows. I would recommend using 1.5-2mm ID tubing for all drivers. Cut tube lengths to 20mm long. Place your damper in the tube and measure how far from the nozzle it is placed. Attach them to the driver and test the FR with your test mic. Keep trimming the tubing(s) until you get the right response. Lastly, combine them all and test the whole IEM. Tweak your design from there.

Note: these FR’s will move around A LOT based on variability in source impedance. However, these will be “close”.

 

[tonybuild]

2x22uF in parallel together will make 44uF (and 2x22uF in series would make 11uF) so you can solder 2 22uF together and you have 40.
As for the drawing 1 is identical to 2.

every single time someone mentions wiring the tweeters and phase this exact question pops up, I anticipated it trying to write my post as clearly as possible. My friend - please reread what I wrote, the answer is in first sentence you quoted. Nothing personal - this question has been answered like 100 times here.

CI- ED would be fine, but 2x0.22uF in series = 0.1uF which is .... pointless, crossover point at 22-25kHz ??? make it 4 or 6uF and that would be good.
CI-TWFK - again mindless cap wiring. Tweeter with 1uF is ok, but the woofer with 0.22uF in second order - it's basically 0 signal to the woofer. TWFK needs bigger cap for woofer - 6-10uF and than 1-0.33uF for tweeter (in 1st order)

Given you have CI, ED and SWFK I'd use first scheme, change cap on ED as described above and than SWFK with 1.5-0.33uF and you'll get a nice full-range 3 way design.

looking at the scheme the phase has been already inverted, connect it as shown on the scheme.

Man , thank you . Speaking of myself, i try to remember as much i can , but lots of time i just forgetting the stuff i learned here ,specially on polerity and wiring . But i got better !

Also swtnate and other people Helped with crossovers and tuning. And i still got lots of questions lol​

 

[IEMbiker]

So, based on your advice, would this be the go-to design? Cap values based on what I have (0.22 uF) and what I can find online (4.7 uF). Also, advice on tube length and damper choice if you can. I thought of putting the SWFK as close to the nozzle as possible and the CI with a 1mm ID tube and heavy damper a long way from the nozzle, but professional advice is appreciated. Thanks

He mean ED is the Mid so normally start with higher Cap like 10uf to 6uf...for me 4.7 is a bit low. I usually use 20uf on ED and, for treble, I use 1uf to 0.8uf for SWFK.

 

[shade105]

He mean ED is the Mid so normally start with higher Cap like 10uf to 6uf...for me 4.7 is a bit low. I usually use 20uf on ED and, for treble, I use 1uf to 0.8uf for SWFK.

piotrus-g do you agree with this? What do you think?

 

[musmecca]

He mean ED is the Mid so normally start with higher Cap like 10uf to 6uf...for me 4.7 is a bit low. I usually use 20uf on ED and, for treble, I use 1uf to 0.8uf for SWFK.

Be prepared to reverse polarity on ed ( more likely) or sw depending on location of notch.

He mean ED is the Mid so normally start with higher Cap like 10uf to 6uf...for me 4.7 is a bit low. I usually use 20uf on ED and, for treble, I use 1uf to 0.8uf for SWFK.

He mean ED is the Mid so normally start with higher Cap like 10uf to 6uf...for me 4.7 is a bit low. I usually use 20uf on ED and, for treble, I use 1uf to 0.8uf for SWFK.

 

[piotrus-g]

So, based on your advice, would this be the go-to design? Cap values based on what I have (0.22 uF) and what I can find online (4.7 uF). Also, advice on tube length and damper choice if you can. I thought of putting the SWFK as close to the nozzle as possible and the CI with a 1mm ID tube and heavy damper a long way from the nozzle, but professional advice is appreciated. Thanks

OK, so, in theory the SWFK should be in the same polarity as ED meaning that the cap should go to the left pad not the right as on the scheme, BUT, here's where it gets tricky depending on the tubing size and length, and ultimately a sound preference you might want to keep the polarity as is. 0.22uF is really small so the impact of SWFK will be fairly limited (crossover point around 30kHz, so technically 15k should be still usable), but the cap value is so small it's hard to predict how the phase will behave in 3-driver combo with separate tubing and damping. You've got a good base, build it, measure,listen, then adjust either polarity or cap value as needed.

Man , thank you . Speaking of myself, i try to remember as much i can , but lots of time i just forgetting the stuff i learned here ,specially on polerity and wiring . But i got better !

Also swtnate and other people Helped with crossovers and tuning. And i still got lots of questions lol​

Anytime

He mean ED is the Mid so normally start with higher Cap like 10uf to 6uf...for me 4.7 is a bit low. I usually use 20uf on ED and, for treble, I use 1uf to 0.8uf for SWFK.

Yeah definitely approach I'd take, but again it depends on a few factors. 20uF on ED with full coil wiring, gives FR cut off of around 800Hz, this is a range that could still be usable in CI, 4.7uF is a bit high (closer to 2-3kHz). If CI used 2mm ID tubing with green-orange damper I could see this working, however if @shade105 plans on using 1mm tubing with yellow damper, then it would have to be bigger value indeed with 20uF probably being a good fit.
1uF for SWFK is tricky as it is high enough to preserve 6kHz peak, I like my SWFKs cut higher to avoid that huge spike, but I guess it's a preference, there are many IEMs that have this spike and it works for them, so...

piotrus-g do you agree with this? What do you think?

See above, generally I'd use higher values as mentioned but that's just me.

 

[tonybuild]

This is my latest fr graph for the 4 drivers setup . It got sonion 38 and sonion 2389d . I reversed polarity on woofer ,because they were canceling each other .
And no center pad, i liked the sound of 22 uf on one of the 2389, and 2.2 uf on other one of 2389 . All caps i ran with positive wire to positive pad .

 

[piotrus-g]

This is my latest fr graph for the 4 drivers setup . It got sonion 38 and sonion 2389d . I reversed polarity on woofer ,because they were canceling each other .
And no center pad, i liked the sound of 22 uf on one of the 2389, and 2.2 uf on other one of 2389 . All caps i ran with positive wire to positive pad .

Looks fairly good, I'd play around to fix this small dent in 2kHz, maybe damper value or damper position. Same with 8kHz, you've got 10dB drop which is quite substantial if you ask me, here I'd increase the cap to 3 or 4uF. In the current set up you have a nice L-shaped signature.